How to test your dryer for non working parts
If the dryer is not heating it does not mean the heating element is bad.
Heating Element and Thermostat:
The heating element and the thermostat can be tested with a continuity meter.
The Pot Control can be tested with an ohm meter. Turned all the way up it should read between 200 – 250 ohms.
Triac and PC Board:
The Triac and PC Board take special machines to test them. Most of the time it will be the Triac that is bad. You can pull back the black plastic on the PC Board to see if the board looks burnt.
There are no guarantees since we do not have your parts to test them ourselves.
Do not test the Triac until the wires are soldered and the Triac is screwed down.
If you do replace the Triac the wires do have to be solder back on not twisted with caps or tape. The Triac must be screwed back down to the heat sink before testing the parts. If these instructions are not followed, the Triac will arc and go out again.
For older dryer models:
The R325 Triac style has change. When changing out the Triac, overheating the Triac while soldering may cause internal damage to dryer. Make sure your solder is in good working condition. The Triac must be mounted to the Control Box to diffused heat.