Scissor Styles

A: There are three general types of handle designs:

Opposing grip handles are both the same length and are symmetrically positioned from the center screw. This is good for stylists who cut with the thumb and middle finger.

Offset grip handles have a shorter thumb handle but both are still symmetrically positioned from the center screw. The shorter thumb handle reduces over-extension of the thumb and allows you to cut with a more open hand but you must still elevate your elbow.

Crane grip handles also have a shorter thumb handle but the angles of the handles are not symmetrical. The longer handle is perpendicular to the blades while the thumb handle is angled. This design allows the elbow to be dropped while cutting and helps to relieve stress on both the shoulder and wrist.

A: The Convex Edge blade was made popular by the Japanese. On a convex edge blade, the edges are ground to a razor sharp 45-50 degree angle. The blades are usually triple honed to make the scissor run very smoothly and quietly. Because of its sharp edges, a convex blade cuts through hair with less force. A must for slide cutting.

The Bevel Edge blade was made popular by the Germans. The edge on a Bevel Edge blade is ground at a 30-40 degree angle. Because these blades are not as sharply angled as convex blades, one edge is usually serrated to keep hair from sliding forward. These edges are also very nick resistant. These are best for layer and taper cutting.

A: A stamped shear is produced similar to the process of cutting out cookies. Strips of steel are stamped out into the shape of a shear. They can then be either ground into the final shape or put into a press and squeezed into shape. With the press method the steel near the edge is compress and the cutting edge will generally last longer.

A forged shear is produced by pouring hot steel into a die that is in the shape of a shear. Half of the form is fastened to an anvil while the other half is attached to a large ram. The ram pounds down onto the anvil and "forges" the hot steel into the shape of the shear. The hot steel forges are then cooled off under controlled conditions and then are tempered and trimmed to their final state.

A: Ice tempering is a termed used to describe the cooling process used on stainless steel shears. To make steel hard it has to be heat treated. With stainless steel that means heating it to above 2000 degrees F. At this temperature, the structure of the steel is at is optimum. To maintain this structure the steel is cooled rapidly and tempered at about 450 degrees F. To make the cutting edge last longer, the steel is then subjected to temperatures about 120 degrees below 0. Thus the term Ice-tempered. The shear is not much harder but the steel is still at its optimum.

A: Never use the shears for any purpose other than cutting hair. Clean your shears every day by wiping away any excess moisture and hair fragments. Lubricate the set screw joint on a weekly basis. Work the oil into the joint by opening and closing the shears several times. Wipe away any excess oil. Avoid dropping the shears. Store in a protected, dry place.